The Must Is a Must and That’s a Promise

Usually for this girl, hard times means I become newly acquainted with that crusty bottle of soy sauce in the back of the fridge. Ten-for-a-dollar ramen noodles complete the picture. If I'm dating, and she's worth it, I'll spring for the three-for-a-dollar ramen... just kidding.

I found an extraordinary place to spend my hard-earned cash. I have to tell you not just because I love you, dear Velvety readers, but because I also love love love this place. The Must is, well, a must and has given women everywhere another juicy reason to travel to downtown Los Angeles. Owned by sexy sommelier and mixologist Coly Den Haan who is so brilliant she not only got her girlfriend, set designer Rachel Thomas, to join her in this venture, but to help her gut and redo the place with a spectacular makeover in just one month. The lovely and talented Rachel's fine aesthetic direction can be seen everywhere. From the custom-made booths that line the perimeter, to the gorgeous back-splash behind the flirty bar, The Must is a vision. I swear on everything sacred, I want the wallpaper in the bathroom. It makes me think of lovely things.

The food. We need to talk about the food, honey.

All photos by Michelle Hinch

After working as Gordon Ramsey's sous chef on Hell's Kitchen, head chef Maryann Salcedo should be anointed with oil for even going near a kitchen again. Her stamina is our reward. The Must's food menu doesn't have anything over $12. But everything on the menu tastes like a million delicious bucks. Deconstructed chicken pot pie is chicken and scrumptious veggies topped with a brioche bun and a loving dollop of creme fraiche that will make you curl up with delight. You will also positively rave about the fluffernutter. Served on brioche bread with a side of decadent melted chocolate, it will kick the living daylights out of any guilty dish you've got going lately. Maryann makes the peanut butter by hand and then, just to make us weep with happiness, adds almond butter.

She's currently at work on concocting her own recipe for marshmallow fluff. Now that's a woman who gives back to the community, my friends. By the way, check out the picture by Michelle Hinch of the patron sampling the fluffernutter on behalf of humans everywhere. Note the joy on her face. She's not faking it, folks.

The Must serves wine and beer only, no cocktails. But don't you worry, mama, you'll do fine. Nothing on the menu is crap. Every single wine on the menu can be had by the glass, carafe and, of course, the whole bottle. Most expensive wine on the list? A gorgeous 2004 Bricco Rosso Barolo in Tonno that comes in at a more than reasonable $74 for the bottle. Helpful tasting notes follow each offering on the wine list. Coly also makes wine infusions with basil or blood oranges. Whether you are a wine geek or just starting, this is a warm and welcoming place.

Then there's the beer. Sea Dog Blueberry Ale, Allagash Curieux Jim Beam and Bayhawk Chocolate Porter are amongst the eight draft beers. Sixteen bottled beers are available, as well. Sit back with an Amstel Light or say hello to a Unibroue Maudite Ale. Both are there.

For those of you who don't drink, may I suggest the bottled sodas - old school root beer or the NA Bitburger Drive.

If you aren't making sounds already, there is something wrong with you. Seriously, put a mirror under your nose.

Although not an exclusively lesbian place, it's still a mighty fine locale where the scenery is lovely indeed. Especially on Tuesday nights, which is ladies' night, complete with d.j. And if you think that cute blonde behind the bar talking smack to the helplessly captivated patron is familiar, well, she is. Favorite dyke-about-town Vanessa Craig moonlights as your new favorite bartender from time to time.

Get thee to The Must and soon; your senses will thank you.

Lunch is Monday through Friday from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.
Dinner is Monday through Saturday from 5 p.m. to midnight.

The Must
118 W. 5th Street
(5th and Spring, downtown Los Angeles)
www.themustbar.com
email: info@themustbar.com